| PIPE TOOLS
Pipe Wrenches | Pipe
Cutters | C Frame Cutter | Hinge
Cutter | Rotary Cutter | Pipe
Threaders and Dies | Flaring Tools
| Tube Cutters | Pipe Reamers
INTRODUCTION
This section deals with those hand tools used to cut, ream,
or thread pipe.
PIPE WRENCHES
Pipe wrenches are manufactured in six (6) basic types. Each
type has a special purpose and some types offer choices of material
for jaws and handles.
The most common type of heavy duty pipe wrench is the straight
handle pattern. The straight pattern is offered with high tensile
strength handles with forged jaws, in both ferrous and non-ferrous
materials. For hazardous applications, some aluminum wrenches
can be supplied with berylium copper jaws, springs, and pins to
comply with safety requirements.
Offset Wrenches are similar to the straight wrench, but the opening
of the jaws is angled at 25 degrees or parallel to the long axis
of the handle instead of 90 degrees as with the straight wrench.
Strap Wrenches provide gripping power without scratching or deforming
plastic or polished metal pipe. A specially woven nylon strap
is extra strong and treated for slip resistance.
The Chain Wrench is for similar service to the standard pipe
wrench, but is designed to ratchet in either direction, and is
also useful in gripping odd shapes. Chain Tongs are used for larger,
extra heavy duty jobs. They employ longer, forged steel handles
and pre-tested chains.
Compound Leverage Wrenches provide additional mechanical advantage
for a given handle strength.
The One Hand Wrench is adjustable to different sizes without
finger adjustment, and is useful for working in very confined,
hard to reach areas.
Proper Uses. The jaw and chain type wrenches are designed
for turning and holding pipes and fittings in service where tooth
marks are not objectionable. Use a Strap Wrench to avoid tooth
marks.
When using a straight or offset pipe wrench always maintain a
gap between the back of the hook jaw and the pipe. This position
concentrates pressure on the jaws, producing the maximum gripping
action and rotating force. The offset handle pattern is ideal
for close quarters where the normal entry of a straight handle
is limited. Always PULL rather than push on the wrench handle.
Abuse/Misuse. Periodic cleaning and inspections should
be made to detect worn or broken teeth on jaws which should be
replaced. Replacement pins and chains are available for chain
wrenches and replacement straps for strap wrenches. Discard any
wrench with bent handle or broken housing. Do not use pipe wrench
on square stock (such as pipe tap or extractor). High loads on
serrations from corners of square can result in chipped jaws and
danger to operator.
PIPE CUTTERS
Pipe Cutters are made in the popular "C’ shaped frame type,
hinged type and rotary type. Pipe cutters are made for cutting
most piping materials, and typically have one cutter wheel and
two rollers, or three or four cutter wheels and no rollers. Advantages
of three and four wheel cutters are that the pipe can be cut in
close quarters by moving the cutter back and forth without rotating
cutter completely around the pipe. Standard steel pipe cutters
usually cut ½ to 2 inch pipe with some made for 3,4 and 6 inch.
"C" FRAME CUTTER
The "C" shaped frame cutter is made with a feed screw
that causes the moveable housing to slide forward making contact
with the pipe.
Another variation of the "C" frame cutter is made with
spring tension guide bars that help provide square alignment on
corroded pipe surfaces.
HINGED CUTTER
The unique feature of this cutter is that the frame hinges are
open and is locked solidly around a pipe thereby saving time when
performing large diameter pipe repair. Designed for tight places
in cutting steel, cast and ductile iron with 4 cutter wheels,
these cutters do not have to be rotated around the pipe. They
cut pipe diameters from 4" to 12". Guides insure square cut off.
ROTARY CUTTER
Rotary Cutters are designed for cutting pipe diameters from 6-30
inches, are of closed frame design, use 4 cutter wheels and feature
an auxiliary extension handle. Guide insures a square cut.
Proper Uses. Mount cutters perpendicular to the pipe.
Lightly tighten cutter and rotate the cutter 360 degrees to insure
proper tracking. Firmly tighten the cutter every revolution while
cutting. Oil working parts to reduce friction.
Abuse/Misuse.
- Don’t use a pipe cutter as a "C"clamp.
- Don’t use the cutter as a lever to break off a partially
cut piece of pipe.
- Don’t use wheels designed for steel in cutting ductile
or cast iron.
- Don’t apply excessive pressure. Especially when used
in conjunction with a power drive, reduce the feed rate, as
an unreasonable amount of pressure could fracture the cutter
wheel causing injury.
Repair/Replacement. Inspect cutter wheels for worn edges
or breaks and replace with proper wheels as required. Also check
the rollers, pins and screws for wear and replace as required.
PIPE THREADERS AND
DIES
Pipe Threaders are made for the purpose of threading pipe,
conduit or bolt stock. Special dies, which have a different rake
angle, are made for threading PVC plastic pipe. Types of pipe
dies include solid, adjustable, split, and segment dies. Solid
die chasers are a non-adjustable part of the die and cut a standard
gage thread. Adjustable dies, which are made as a matched set,
are used in maintenance or other work where adjustments for thread
size are required because of variance from standard O.D. Segment
type chasers are used in drop head ratchet threaders. Dies are
manufactured to exacting tolerances in several different universally
recognized standards. The most common standard in the United States
is the American Standard Taper Pipe Thread which is simply referred
to by the letters "NPT." There are also straight pipe
thread dies known as National Pipe Straight Mechanical Dies, "NPSM."
Pipe Dies used in drop head or standard threaders are
full width dies and the correct pipe taper is built into the die
itself.
Bolt Dies (Round Button Dies) which have straight threads
rather than tapered threads, are primarily manufactured to two
U.S. standards; Unified National Coarse and Unified National Fine,
denoting the number of pitches or threads per inch.
Proper Uses. All dies have a throat or flared opening
for starting the die on the pipe.
To thread pipe the operator simply puts the leading edges of
dies against the pipe end and starts to ratchet, while applying
end pressure against the stock to start the threading. A good
cutting oil should be used during thread operation. When the end
of the pipe is flush with the end of the die a "Full Width
Thread" has been achieved and the die head is reversed to
remove it from the threaded pipe.
DROP HEAD RATCHET THREADER
Description. The Drop Head Ratchet Threader (Pipe) is
found in virtually every plumber’s tool box. It’s ideal for low
volume threading and can be used with or without a power drive.
These threaders feature replaceable cutting dies which are frequently
referred to as die segments or dies. The drop head threader features
an integral guide, and the entire head is exchanged when changing
sizes. Another style of threader features an integral adjustable
guide similar to a lathe chuck, and only the die is exchanged
to change size.
THREE WAY THREADER
The three way threader is used by both plumbers and electricians
because they feature the three die sizes most commonly used. This
type of threader uses the same type dies as the drop head threader
but does not have a ratcheting feature, but rather has two handles.
RECEDING THREADER
In this type of threader, the dies, which are narrower than a
"Full Width" die, automatically follow an angled path
or taper, and hence recede. Most commonly made in 1-2 inch range
or larger, the feed of dies is controlled by a lead screw arrangement
that is secured on the pipe by a quick operating chuck.
Because the threader uses half width dies, it requires less pulling
effort by the operator.
These threaders use the round button dies to cut bolt threads
(UNC or UNF) from 1/4 inch through 1 inch. They can be used by
hand or with a power drive.
Abuse/Misuse. Always use a quality cutting oil while threading
for proper cooling and longer life of the die. It promotes clean
threads and prevents chips from being welded to the die and tearing
threads. Insufficient oiling causes poor threads which could result
in leaky installations, and reduced die life. Always thread the
pipe flush with the outer end of the die to give a full nipple.
Repair/Replacement. Replace dies when teeth break, produce
torn threads or when dies do not produce standard size threads.
FLARING TOOLS
One method of joining light metal and plastic tubing to fittings
is by flaring. Fittings and flares are categorized by degree,
commonly 45 degree or 37 degree. There are two types of flaring
tools, hammer and screw type. Different types of flaring tools
are used for plastic and for metal tubing as illustrated below.
SCREW TYPE FLARING TOOL FOR METAL TUBING
Proper Uses. Screw Type – Select a tool which forms
the correct flare to match the angle of the fitting. Tubing to
be flared should be cut with a tubing cutter to assure a straighter
cut. Then ream the inside diameter of the tube to remove burrs
for a smoother flare. Position and clamp tubing in flaring bars
with end of the tube flush with top of bar and center cone down
until flare is made.
Hammer Flare – Used for water tube. Insert tool
in tube – strike with hammer to produce flare. (See Section
IV-Struck or Hammered Tools.)
Abuse/Misuse. Do not flare hard copper or tubing not designed
for flared joints. Do not use flaring tool clamp for holding rod
or pipe.
Repair/Replacement. Replace or repair flaring tool when
clamp no longer holds tube without slipping or when flare becomes
misaligned.
PLASTIC FLARING TOOLS
Proper Uses. Plastic pipe inside diameters very with pipe
materials and uses. The pilot plug of the flaring tool must match
the inside diameter of the tubing. Tubing needs to be cut square
and be free of burrs. Back off flaring head to nut stop, insert
pilot plug in tubing and clamp firmly. Screw down the flaring
head all the way to form full flare, reverse to nut stop and unclamp.
Lightly oil threads on plug for easier operation.
Abuse/Misuse. Do not use clamp as pliers for holding other
objects. Never use tool as a hammer, and protect flaring plug
threads from damage.
Do not attempt to use on sizes or classes of pipes not stamped
on the tool.
TUBING CUTTERS
Tubing Cutters usually contain one cutter wheel and, with
a quick change of the cutter wheel, are used for cutting metal
or plastic. Sizes range from 1/8" to 8".
Proper Uses. Tubing Cutters are used to make quick, square
cuts leaving a minimum burr. Select the proper cutter wheel type
for cutting metal or plastic. Use light feed pressure on the first
revolution to make sure cutter tracks. Firmly tighten the screw
every revolution. Keep rotating parts clean and lightly oiled.
Abuse/Misuse. To maintain cutter alignment, be careful
not to drop or throw cutter. Do not use to cut glass tubing or
steel pipe. Never use a copper cutting wheel for plastic,
or vice versa.
Repair/Replacement. Inspect cutter wheels for worn or
broken edges and replaced when needed. Inspect and repair cutter
when it does not track or cut square.
PIPE REAMER
While a pipe is being cut, a burr forms on its inside diameter.
This burr could act as a trap to snag sediment or mineral deposits
which might flow through the pipe. Therefore, it is necessary
to cleanly remove the burr. There are two basic models of hand-held
reamers – the straight fluted reamer and the spiral reamer.
Proper Uses. The straight fluted reamer is most frequently
used when the pipe is being rotated by a power drive. The operator
should use only enough force to remove burr; it is not necessary
to bevel the inside of the pipe. If the pipe is being held stationary
in a vise, then slight end pressure coupled with a ratcheting
action will easily remove the burr.
The spiral ratchet reamer has self-feeding design especially
useful for easy, fast, manual reaming. This type of reamer is
also commonly used to enlarge holes in conduit box outlets or
other sheet metal applications.
Abuse/Misuse. Do not use a spiral reamer on a rotating
pipe. The spiral is self-feeding and its sharp edges could dig
into the wall of the pipe and get hung up. The ratchet handle
could then rotate out of control causing injury to the operator.
DO’S AND DON’TS WHEN USING PIPE TOOLS
When using a heavy duty Pipe Wrench, adjust size to maintain
a gap between the back of the hook jaw and the pipe. This concentrates
the pressure at the jaw teeth only and produces the maximum gripping
force and aids ratcheting action.
Always pull rather than push on the pipe wrench handle and maintain
a proper stance with feet firm to hold balance.
Pipe Wrenches are designed to turn or hold pipe; never use a
Pipe Wrench to bend, raise or lift a pipe.
Select a Pipe Wrench with sufficient capacity and leverage –
never use a pipe extender or "cheater."
Do not use a Pipe Wrench as a hammer, nor strike a Pipe Wrench
with a hammer.
Inspect Pipe Wrenches periodically for worn or unsafe parts and
replace them.
In tapping, be certain to use the correct tap size in the hole.
It is recommended that the hole be of such size that the thread
cut by the tap will be about 75 percent as deep as thread on the
tap.
Cast iron can be tapped dry but lubricant should be used with
other metals.
Do not permit chips to clog flutes as this will prevent tap from
turning.
Do not attempt to thread hardened steel as this will probably
result in a chipped or otherwise damaged die.
Threading: Do not thread any rod or other cylindrical object
that is larger in diameter than the major diameter of the die
thread.
When removing, rapid spinning of the threading stock is not recommended
as this may damage the tool.
Pipe cutter wheels that are nicked or otherwise damaged should
be replaced.
If there is not enough space to swing the single wheel pipe cutter
completely around pipe, then a three or four-wheel cutter should
be used.
Be certain the cutting wheel is suitable to cut type of pipe
material. Thin wheel is suitable for cutting ordinary steel pipe,
stout wheel is made to cut cast iron.
Other wheels are available for stainless steel, plastic and other
materials.
Never use a spiral reamer on a rotating pipe. The reamer may
snag and cause serious bodily injury.
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