Klein Tools Literature Instructions MSDS Information Warranty Statements

PROPER USE AND CARE OF HAND TOOLS

INTRODUCTION
There are well over 300 different non-power hand tools available on the market specifically intended for servicing cars, each with a special configuration of its own to service parts of the car, such as the carburetor, cylinders, drive train, valves, shock absorbers, windshield wipers, etc. Some of the tools are shaped to reach into difficult to get into places and remove special fittings while other tools, such as the slide hammer puller, will make the removal of a rear axle from a car a relatively easy job.

If you’re a weekend do-it-yourself auto mechanic who enjoys working on the car in the driveway or a professional mechanic who uses tools all day, safety begins well before the car ignition is turned on; it begins with using the proper tool for the job and using it safely.

Before you service a car, be certain you are qualified to do the job correctly, using the proper tool safely. Whenever using any tool, always wear safety goggles to prevent possible eye injury.

BRAKE SERVICE TOOLS

BRAKE SHOE RETAINING SPRING TOOL
To remove and replace dish type washer. Knurled cup securely grips washer on both small and standard cars.

BRAKE ADJUSTMENT TOOL
Use to adjust drum brakes. Shape fits drum opening; angle provides leverage for easy adjustment.

BRAKE CYLINDER HONE
Hones all cylinders with straight bore or blind end.

BRAKE BLEEDER WRENCH
Hex ends fit on bleeder valves to bleed brake cylinders.

DISC BRAKE PAD SPREADER
Spreads pads and holds them in position when assembling caliper over rotor.

TIRE TREAD AND BRAKE LINING GAUGE
Measures the amount of lining remaining on drum and disc brake pads. Measures tire tread depth. Works on disc brakes without removing removing caliper.

DISC ROTOR/BALL JOINT GAUGE
Checks ball joint wear and disc rotor runout. Includes roller contact for checking wheel runout and 1" diameter radiused contact for checking tire runout. Can also be used as general purpose gauge for checking gear backlash, valve guide wear and camshaft wear.

BRAKE RESETTING GAUGE
Determines proper clearance between brake lining and drum. Inside calipers measure drum diameter. Outside calipers transfer measurement to brake shoes. Knurled knob locks measurement.

BRAKE SPRING TOOL
Use special socket for removing Retur-Spring and the other end for replacing spring.

ENGINE TOOLS

FLYWHEEL TURNER
Use when working on clutches, transmissions, installing rings or other jobs that require the crankshaft to be in a specific position.

THROTTLE ADJUSTING TOOL
Adjusts RPM without disturbing original carburetor setting. Handy for tune-ups, timing, or air-conditioning service. Compact size. Can be used without removing air-cleaner.

PISTON RING COMPRESSOR
Designed for use on all passenger cars. 2-1/8" to 5" capacity. Two-band ratchet type with enlarged crimped edge to prevent compressor from entering cylinder.

METRIC WRENCHES FOR SOCKET SCREWS
Used to install and remove metric bolts on most foreign cars and some domestic compacts.

VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR
For use on overhead valves. Longer jaws enables use on high performance engines. Offset jaws designed to grip valve spring in parallel compression. There’s no need to remove the cylinder head. Hex head on center screw allows use of ratchet wrench for faster use. The sliding "T" handle is designed for use in tight places. For use on cars and light trucks.

HYDRAULIC TAPPET REMOVER
Removes sticking hydraulic valve tappets. Jaws spread apart to clamp recessed area of tappet. Sliding hammer bangs them out.

AIR HOLD FITTING
Used to apply air pressure to keep valves closed while servicing single valves. Engine may rotate slightly when air applied. Use caution, avoid pinch points.

GASKET SCRAPER
Scrapes mating surfaces clean before installing new gaskets on water pumps, thermostat housings, cylinder heads, etc.

CARBURETOR AND DISTRIBUTOR ADJUSTING TOOL
Allows fine adjustment and easy access. No need to remove the air filter. Unique 90 degree and 30 degree angles get into the most cramped areas. Includes screwdriver attachment for carburetor.

REVERSIBLE FAN WRENCH
Removes and installs fan bolts and clutch fans on most air conditioned cars. Handle is offset to prevent skinned knuckles on honeycomb radiator structure. Also provides easy access to nuts under car seats.

PISTON RING FLIER
File piston rings with this portable rotary filer. Use to accurately size any make, type or diameter ring. Place opening of piston ring over cutter. Turn handle until proper ring clearance is obtained. Includes extra hard carbide coated cutter file.

PISTON RING GROOVE CLEANER
Holder secures piston in position during cleaning. Spring release for quick removal of piston.

CYLINDER HEAD RETHREADER TAP
Repairs damaged spark plug threads with thread inserts.

BATTERY SERVICE TOOLS

CLAMP AND POST CLEANER
PROPER USE. Turn brush clockwise and counterclockwise on post and inside clamp to remove corrosion.
WRONG. Never reinstall a clamp without removing all corrosion from post and clamp, thereby insuring a good electrical connection.

BATTERY PLIER
PROPER USE. Grasp battery clamp nut firmly. Turn one quarter turn at a time. Do not hit battery case.
WRONG. Never use a standard plier. It will round corners off battery nut and may break battery case.

BATTERY TERMINAL CLAMP SPREADER
PROPER USE. Insert head inside clamp, spread, and ream inside of clamp.
WRONG. Never use a hammer to pound clamp or post. This will break post or battery case.

BATTERY CARRIER
PROPER USE. Adjust so all three grips fit tightly on battery before lifting.
WRONG. Do not pick up battery without a carrier. It can drop and cause injury or breakage.

BATTERY TERMINAL PULLER
PROPER USE. Removes corroded clamps, including spring types. The sharp jaws engage either below or on sides of cable terminals and lift tightest terminals without damaging battery cases or posts. Center screw swivel makes it an effective puller for generator bearings and magneto gears.

IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL TOOLS

WIRE STRIPPER AND CRIMPER
An all-around tool for crimping solderless terminals, splicing, cutting and stripping.

BULB BASE REMOVER PLIER
Removes corroded base when bulb is broken. Serrated lip on jaws gives firm hold for tight, positive grip without crushing bulb base.

SPARK PLUG OPENING THREAD CHASER
Cleans threads of carbon corrosion and metal.

DISTRIBUTOR CLAMP WRENCH
A necessity for any shop doing distributor work. Gets to the nut locking the distributor and enables the mechanic to loosen nut, adjust timing, and lock distributor.

HIGH-LOW VOLTAGE TESTER
Tests for voltage, spark and continuity in 6, 12 and 24 volt systems. Ground clip and touch probe to point being tested. Tester bulb will light if voltage present. Screw probe into opposite end of handle to check for spark.

REMOTE CONTROL STARTER SWITCH
Use to bypass ignition switch on any engine with a solenoid starter switch. Lets you crank engine while working in engine compartment.

SPARK PLUG GAP GAUGE
Measures spark plug electrode gap on wide gap plugs from 0.35" to 0.80". Includes two electrode adjusting tools.

INSULATED SPARK PLUG TERMINAL PLIER
No more shocks with this special tool designed to remove cable terminals from spark plugs quickly and easily.

MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS

RADIATOR HOSE "PINCH-OFF" PLIER
Eliminates necessity of draining cooling system when installing thermostats and water pumps on all pressurized cooling systems.

BALL JOINT SEPARATOR
When placed between the ball joint and steering knuckle, and given a few sharp blows with a hammer, this tool separates these stubborn parts with ease.

SHOCK ABSORBER WRENCH
This tool is a must for the easy removal and installation of shock absorbers on most American cars.

UNIVERSAL NUT CRACKER
Splits most stubborn nuts 5/16" through 3/4" diameter. Works in channels not accessible to other tools. Parallel action of pusher cracks nuts without damaging bolt threads.

MUFFLER & TAIL PIPE TOOLS

EXHAUST AND TAIL PIPE CUTTER
Adjustable for cutting various diameters of exhaust and tail pipes. Oil cutter wheel before use.

EXHAUST AND TAIL PIPE EXPANDER
Flares and shapes the pipe end as well as expands it.

MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE CHISEL
A few blows and muffler & tail pipe are ready to slip apart.

BODY & FENDER HAMMERS

DINGING HAMMER
Designed to rough out metal work in preparation for finishing.

LIGHT FINISHING HAMMER
Light weight and perfectly balanced for final finishing work.

SHRINKING HAMMER
Has large faces, serrated for shrinking and smooth for finishing.

HEAVY FINISHING HAMMER
A well balanced hammer for all-around finishing work.

LONG FINISHING HAMMER
Designed for finishing metal work in areas where long reach is required.

FINISHING HAMMER
A light weight, well-balanced finishing hammer with a wedge-shaped cross peen for use on fender beads and similar work surfaces.

PECKING HAMMER
Forged steel head combines long pointed end for pecking out small dents and round slightly crowned face for finishing.

BALL PEEN HAMMERS
Designed for striking chisels and punches, and for riveting, shaping and straightening unhardened metal.

DEAD BLOW HAMMERS
Designed for no-bounce blows. Use wherever hammer bounce could be a problem.

Abuse/Misuse. Strike squarely and avoid glancing blows that may cause the edge of the face to chip, possibly resulting in eye or other serious injury. Never strike with or against the side, or cheek, of any hammer.

Abuse/Misuse. Never use these special-purpose hammers for any but the purposes for which they are designed.

Abuse/Misuse. Never use urethane coated hammers in extreme temperatures such as below freezing, or when wear and abrasion expose the steel inner surface of the face.

Abuse/Misuse. Never use these tools to drive nails or screws or to strike sharp metal objects. Never use a hammer with loose or damaged handle.

BODY REPAIR DOLLIES

LOW CARBON DOLLY
Useful, popular shape with many different curves and angles.

UNIVERSAL OR "RAILROAD" DOLLY
Ideal for bumping out dents.

TOE DOLLY
Has many radii with flat bottom and side. Ends are high crowned. Ideal for both flat and curved surfaces.

WEDGE OR "COMMA" DOLLY
A popular dolly designed for fender beads and flanges. Flat side works well on long curves while thin edge is ideal for corners and beading.

HEAVY WEDGE DOLLY
Unique shape and low crown are ideal for shrinking body metal and for raising beads and molding.

HEEL DOLLY
Semi-elliptical shape has two flat and two crowned working surfaces. Useful in restricted spaces. May be used for shrinking body metal.

"CHEESE GRATER" BODY FILE
Files look like a cheese grater, are used to shape plastic body filler before the patch is fully hardened.

MECHANIC GEAR PULLERS

INTRODUCTION
Mechanical Gear Pullers are used for the removal of gears, pulleys, bearings, flanges and fly wheels from shafts and/or housings for the repair or replacement of any of these components. Care should be taken in choosing the proper puller for a pulling job. For example, if the gear to be removed has a 6" diameter, choose a puller designed for pulling gears in that size range.

BASIC SAFETY RULES FOR USE OF GEAR PULLERS:

Always select the proper gear puller for each pulling job. Always use a gear puller equal to or larger than required.
Before use, the center screw should be lubricated with machine oil.
Always wear safety goggles when using gear pullers.
Always use hand tools on gear pullers. Avoid the use of air powered tools.
Always make sure that the gear puller is aligned with the shaft, assuring a straight pull during its operation.
Never apply heat to any gear puller. Applying heat could cause the puller to lose its "strength."
Should it become necessary to strike the puller for removal of a stubborn gear or bearing, care should be taken to strike the head of the center screw squarely. If after one or two sharp blows, the gear or bearing remains stuck, select a larger puller and proceed to remove the gear or bearing.
Never alter any part of a gear puller by cutting or grinding.
Always clean the gear puller after use and store in a clean dry place.

Description. Although it may sometimes appear that there are several different types of pullers, actually there are two general types:

Jaw type: consisting of two or more jaws, a center screw, a yoke, several links and a quantity of bolts and nuts for attachment of the jaws to the yoke.

a) Adjustable: allows the user to increase reach.
b) Reversible: allows internal and external pulling.
Bolt type: consisting of a cross arm, a center screw, and several side screws in various sizes for the attachment of the tool to the gear or pulley to be removed.

BASIC SAFETY RULES WHICH APPLY TO THE USE OF PULLERS:

Remember: Operator safety comes first! A significant amount of force can be exerted with a puller. Respect this force and observe safety precautions at all times.

CAUTION: It is impossible to predict the exact force required for every pulling job. Set-up requirements and the size, shape and condition of the part being pulled vary a great deal. In addition, the puller, its attachments and accessories are versatile. Therefore, it is possible that components in a pulling set-up may have different strength. The lowest "capacity" component then determines the capacity of the set-up. These tools should be used only by trained personnel, familiar with them. Use only after the operating instructions have been read and fully understood. If you are at all unsure of which tool or attachment to select or the proper use of the selective tool, contact the tool manufacturer.

After it has been decided which size and type of gear puller is the right one for your particular application, care should be taken. Always wear safety goggles. Before attaching the puller, lubricate the center screw with machine oil. Attach the "jaws" to the pulley or gear so that the "jaw gripping" surface is in direct contact to the gear or pulley with as much area as possible. Position the center screw in the center of the shaft with the point of the center screw in this indention.

Next, hand tighten the center screw until the puller is snug on the part, making sure that the "jaw gripping surfaces" are still in the correct position. Before proceeding, make sure that the center screw is well oiled, especially in the area about to be used. Next, attach a box-end wrench or socket and ratchet to the center screw hex head. Turn the center screw clockwise until the gear or pulley is removed. It may on rare occasions be necessary to provide additional force to remove the gear or pulley. This should be done by striking the center screw head with a machinist or ball peen hammer. Only one or two blows should be required and only to free up a stuck gear or pulley for the first few turns of the center screw. Before striking, be sure to remove the wrench or socket. A center screw should never be struck more than one or two times. If the gear or pulley is still not loosened, it may be necessary to use a larger capacity puller. Never heat any part of a gear puller with a torch or other heating device; gear pullers are made of steel that is heat treated and this would weaken them.

BOLT TYPE PULLER

If the bolt type puller is to be used, first lubricate the center screw as previously described. Choose the correct side screws considering thread size, length and number of screws needed. Next, place the yoke and center screw assembly on the shaft. While holding the assembly with one hand, place the side screws through the slots provided in the yoke and into the threaded holes in the pulleys or gears or gear, turning them evenly so that when the center screw is tightened, the yoke will remain properly aligned with the shaft.

Check to make sure that the center screw is well oiled. Attach the appropriate wrench or socket and ratchet to the center screw hex head and turn the center screw clockwise until the gear or pulley is removed. It is seldom necessary to strike the center screw with the hammer, but if it does become necessary refer to the cautions mentioned earlier. When selecting a gear puller for a pulling job, first determine if a jaw type or bolt type is to be used. If a jaw type is to be used, determine the diameter of the part to be pulled as well as the length of the pull necessary.

STEERING WHEEL PULLER

HARMONIC BALANCE PULLER

JAW TYPE GEAR PULLER

A FEW EASY TIPS TO REMEMBER

Cover work with canvas: With high forces being exerted on the part being pulled, parts being pulled may sometimes fracture, resulting in flying parts. By covering the work with a canvas the user reduces the possibility of flying parts.

BEARING PULLING ATTACHMENTS

These attachments may not withstand the full capacity of the pullers in which they are used. The shape and condition of the part being pulled affects the capacity at which the puller blocks and/or studs may bend or break. Always select the largest attachments which will fit the part to be pulled.

HOW TO MEASURE REACH AND SPREAD

Reach and spread dimensions of the job must first be determined. A typical example of the reach and spread dimension is shown below. Notice that the length of the protruding shaft and the thickness of the component determine the reach needed. The width of the component determines the spread required.

HOW TO DETERMINE REACH AND SPREAD

WHEN TO REPAIR OR REPLACE

Discard or replace any puller, or puller and accessory components when any of the functioning parts show excessive wear, dents, cracks, chipping or if puller center screw shows signs of galling or seizing. Puller link or cap screws should be replaced only with a manufacturer’s replacement part or its equivalent.

PULLING ATTACHMENTS

Pulling attachments are used in conjunction with jaw and bolt type pullers to get behind the parts being pulled.

When the housing lacks sufficient surface for the puller legs to bear against, a pulling attachment may be used to provide support.

SLIDE HAMMER PULLERS WITH ATTACHMENT

Slide hammer pullers, when used in conjunction with puller jaws or other attachments, can be used to pull various size pilot bearings, oil seals, bushings, timing gears, harmonic balancers, axle shafts and other tightly fitted parts. A slide hammer puller is combined with an internal pulling attachment. It is ideal for removing parts from blind holes, especially when there is no housing to brace the puller legs against; and when no center shaft is present to rest the center screw of the puller against.

INTERNAL PULLERS

Internal pulling attachments are used to get a straight pull, thus avoiding damage to a housing or other parts. Used in combination with a bolt puller or a slide hammer puller, this attachment enables one to easily reach into a blind hole and remove a bearing race, threader or oil seal. Jaws of the attachment are readily adjustable to fit various diameters.

SPECIAL PULLERS

Special pullers are designed for such unique pulling jobs as removing harmonic type balancers, timing gears for pulleys, alternator and power steering pump pulleys, and for removing bearings, bushings, sleeves and other parts from blind holes. Hydraulic assisted pullers are used in industrial and off the road applications, seldom for automotive uses and thus not given much attention in this automotive book.

WHEN TO REPAIR OR REPLACE

Discard or replace any functioning parts showing excessive wear, dents, chipping, cracks or if center screw threads or attaching fasteners show signs of galling or seizing. If attaching fasteners are replaced, they should be replaced only with a manufacturer’s replacement part or with its equivalent.

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